Reveling in La Rioja, Spain
There are a few places I’ve traveled that are so beautiful it’s next to impossible to find words that do them justice. La Rioja is absolutely one of those places. Incredible mountain ranges run through and around the region to create unique valleys, hillsides, and distinct terroir that stems from the different soil types formed by those mountains and seven snaking rivers that feed into the larger Ebro river. Rust colored rocks and rugged soils stud a chalky white landscape that’s painted with vibrant green vines and trees. Combined with the waft of wine that’s carried by a steady breeze, and the clamor of omnipresent songbirds and clinking wine glasses, La Rioja is a feast for the senses.
Relaxation and tranquility were big boxes to check since this vacation was added to the back end of a week of work in Madrid. Staying at Finca de los Arandinos in Entrena (15 minutes outside of Logroño) was just what the doctor ordered. A hotel, a spa, an art gallery, a winery, and a Michelin recommended restaurant all situated on a classic brush vine vineyard make this architectural marvel a perfect place to unwind, sip wine, and take in the incomparable beauty of the Rioja countryside.
Of course, diving into wine was my main motivation for visiting this legendary region. However, without a truly strong grasp of Rioja wines and how to get around and where to visit, we connected with Inma and Mel of Rioja Wine Trips to help guide our journey. With Mel driving, we visited six phenomenal wineries and ate our weight in excellent Spanish cuisine over the course of two magical days.
Each of the wineries we visited offered totally unique experiences and the perfect mix of wines to not just learn about Rioja wines, but to become immersed in the people, vineyards, and culture that produce them. I’m not going to go totally overboard and explain the intricacies of each visit, but it’s important to know that most of these require an advanced reservation (or that you visit with Inma and Mel).
Finca la Emparatriz was a true tonesetter as the first winery we visited – and they featured a truly incredible estate Garnacha and my first ever introduction to Viura (which became a passion of mine throughout our time in Rioja – and now, too!). We next visited the garagistas of Cupani (officially known as Heredad San Andrés) in the tiny village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra. A small family project run by Enrique, and his sons Enrique, Jr., and Miguel – the winemaker – fashion a “new wave” or modern take on Rioja wine. And these wines are stunning – the Garnacha, Tempranillo, Sir Cupani, and Baskunes are all out-of-this-world good – and they were made even better by tasting them with Miguel and learning about his family’s passion and belief that their vineyards make the wine, they just bring it to bottle. After enjoying way too much traditional Spanish fare in an 11th century castle, we rounded out day one with a visit to the very small, but very heralded Bodegas González Teso (Gontés by label). The Olmo 34 and 2011 Gontés showcased why Gontés wines are celebrated and served in some of the best (read: Michelin star) restaurants in Spain.
Day two of our touring was geared toward “the classics” of Rioja – but not so much what you find traditionally exported around the world – these classics were all about who is crafting exceptional Rioja wines that set the standard for the region. Marqués de Vargas is probably a name you know if you’ve ever perused the Spanish wines section of your higher-end wine retailer; if not, it’s one you should get very familiar with. These wines are long established as industry leaders, and they’ve always been stewards of Tempranillo. Today, you’ll see the re-emergence of Mazuelo, Graciano, and Maturana as the winery evolves to stylistically raise-the-bar yet again and to meet an ever-growing demand for high quality Rioja wines.
The middle of day two’s journey had us visit the town of Briones and Bodega Miguel Merino and I can’t say enough good things about this place, this family, and these wines. A winery that started out by producing only Gran Reserva wines (that’s crazy, to wait at least four years before ever releasing your first wine) they’ve grown to feature Reservas, a Blanco, and single varietal Mazuelo that is nothing short of funky fun. After a long lunch in Ollauri at Taberna de Ollauri, we walked over to Bodegas Conde de los Andes. A beautiful, modern tasting room in a very old nondescript building would have been just fine; however, venturing deep underground to a labyrinth of caves that were first dug in the Middle Ages, then continued in the 17th century, and finished only recently was a total highlight. Tasting an unlabeled (and fabulous) 2005 in the cave while standing next to bottles from 1892, 1932, and 1948 was also pretty cool – to say the least.
We spent the next day like any tourist in Rioja should – drinking our way through Haro. The Station District of Haro feels a lot like the Avenue of Champagne in Epernay in that you can walk door-to-door and drink your fill of awesome wines. And we did just that! Opening with Gomez Gruzado, progressing to Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia, on to La Rioja Alta, over to Muga, down to CVNE, with a stop at Bodegas Bilbainas, and then back to La Rioja Alta we sampled as much as we could before we decided it was time to head back to our hotel, sit in the vineyard, and open more wine. There is no shortage of fun to be had in Haro – and it’s definitely a town you have to spend a whole day getting to know.
