Finger Lakes Wine Country: Wineries and Restaurants to Visit
It’s not a secret anymore; New York’s Finger Lakes wine region is starting to make a move into the limelight. No matter when you visit the Finger Lakes, you’re met with upstate New York’s seasonal glory. The sheer beauty of the area – densely forested hills and mountains giving way to picturesque lakes which see sprawling vineyards kiss right up to the shores – is showstopping. The wines – most notably the Rieslings – coming from the Finger Lakes are gaining national notoriety, and with very good reason. I just spent a few wintry days soaking up so much of this gorgeous region, and here are a few of my favorite finds – a huge thank you to Adrian (and his article on the Vintner Project) who helped craft my itinerary by recommending many of these wonderful places.
This powerhouse winery consistently produces some of the Finger Lakes’ best Rieslings. Located in Dundee, on the west side of Seneca Lake, “Hermann” features evolving biodynamic farming practices and single vineyard Rieslings. My absolute favorite here is the 2017 HJW “Bio” a very dry Riesling loaded with peaches, white flowers, dried chamomile, and unctuous acidity that may have been the best wine of the trip. The whole lineup of Rieslings are excellent and you’ll also find fun red and white field blends. Excellent hospitality really punctuates this standout winery.
A relatively new player in the game, Boundary Breaks has a beautiful new tasting room in Lodi on the east side of Seneca Lake. Specializing in Riesling, Boundary Breaks produces some of the region’s best. A tasting lineup built to focus from driest to sweetest starts with a Sparkling Dry Riesling “Number 356” and moves to the Extra Dry Riesling “Number 90,” Dry Riesling “Number 238,” and a pair of reserve Rieslings “Ovid Line North” and Reserve “Number 198.” Super unique, and uber intriguing – the focus on craftsmanship and astute winemaking is obvious. You need these for your oysters, spicy jalapeño salsas, green curries, and soft cheeses. Also of note the 2016 Cabernet Franc and the 2017 Gewürtztraminer.
Geneva’s Billsboro winery is your go-to outdoor patio hangout. Overlooking Seneca Lake, Billsboro produces lots of different wine varietals that showcase the cool climate styles famous in the Finger Lakes. This is a great spot to stop and take in the all of the lakeside beauty – sit outside and buy a bottle to pair with a local New York cheese (that you can also find in the tasting room). Favorites here included the 2017 Sauvignon Blanc, 2017 Pinot Gris, and 2016 Syrah.
Owners Morten and Lisa Hallgran have created a must-visit destination in Ravines. Winemaker Morten – who was raised in Provence, France – crafts some of the region’s best wines (and his skill and understanding of how to let French oak subtly impart its nuance into some of these wines is so, so good). Chef Lisa has designed an excellent food and wine pairing menu – The Ravinous Table – which is an added bonus of visiting Ravines – you can experience first-hand just how food-friendly all of their wines can be. While all of the wines here are great, for whites I especially loved the 2016 White Springs Vineyard Dry Riesling, 2016 Argetsinger Vineyard Dry Riesling, 2016 Jeff’s Field Dry Riesling, and 2015 Chardonnay, and for reds I was blown away by the 2014 Maximilien and 2015 Le Petit Caporal (a big, sexy, Bordeaux style blend that had me beyond impressed with the Morten’s ability to take warm weather varietals grown in a cool climate and turn them into a racy red echoing Bordeaux’ classic features).
The pantry and tasting room of its critically acclaimed restaurant next-door, F.L.X. Table, Provisions offers guests a very intimate space to sample lots of small local wine and beer producers. The hospitality and the tasting are personally crafted to your unique interests. Provisions also serves as the home of Element Winery, where you can sample vertical flights of their outstanding Dry Rieslings. You’ll also find other excellent producers such as Forge, Onyare, Terrassen, and Hermann J. Wiemer. A great pre-dinner visit in the heart of Geneva.
Chef and Master Sommelier, Chris Bates, is co-owner of F.L.X. Table in Geneva with his wife Isabel Bogadtke. The pair have created one of the country’s best dining experiences – and in 2017 USA Today named their 12 seat intimate gathering space the best new restaurant in the nation. You need reservations well in advance to attend one of the two nightly seatings, and once you step into this beautifully appointed cozy scene you’ll know why. Dinner is a social event at F.L.X. Table as you’re invited to mingle with the other guests before, during, and after your meal. Wines from around the world – especially those from the Finger Lakes – are featured and poured based on your preferences, and to match the menu which changes nightly to reflect what’s fresh, fun, and regionally inspiring. Our meal started with a large chef’s board of bread and roasted local root vegetables, coupled with multiple housemade butters and dipping sauces. Next, a beet (yes, b-e-e-t, not beef) tartare so well-crafted that it could only be something you’d see here. Then, a cauliflower bisque poured over a bed of black garlic and pickled chanterelle mushrooms, served with your choice of shaved white or black truffle was something out of a dream. Followed next by a lamb terrine so nuanced and decadent that I’m still dreaming about it. Finally, a poached apple served with chai squash mousse and a brown butter chiffon – all of which melted in my mouth – served as the send-off to the meal and the stories shared with the new friends we made. All of these courses were perfectly paired with beautiful wines – we opted to stick with selections from the Finger Lakes (because when in Rome, or in this case, Geneva), but our neighbors raved about the international selections they were served. F.L.X. Table is an absolute must-visit dinner destination when you’re in the Finger Lakes. Make sure to make reservations well in advance and to stop into F.L.X. Provisions before your meal to sample a host of great regional wines.
