A Perfect Day (and Night) in Epernay
I used to think Disney World was the “happiest place on earth” until I set foot in Champagne. And in Champagne – just like Disney World – there are lots of unique areas to explore. Epernay might be the real Magic Kingdom. On our recent trip to the birthplace of bubbles, we had the opportunity to spend a perfect day and night in Epernay. From big and small producers, to world class food, to top notch accommodations, and non-stop smiles Epernay delivers happiness in the best ways – no mouse ears necessary.
In my favorite dream I’m walking down a long street, with perfectly manicured sidewalks, lined by incredible beautiful houses and buildings, and then I woke up in Epernay on the Avenue of Champagne. There are big name producers like Mercier, Pol Roger, Perrier Jouet, Veuve Clicquot, and Moët & Chandon nestled alongside smaller producers like Michel Gonet, Esterlin, Collard-Picard, and one of my personal favorites, Paul-Etienne Saint Germain. All of these houses are next door to each other, making walking on a bubble cloud a dream come true. You’ll need reservations for most of them, but they’re easy to get online in advance.
We had to visit at least one big producer – and Moët & Chandon was a siren’s song. It stands out in every way, taking up major real estate on both sides of the Avenue, boasting incredible architecture and unmistakable labels. A bottle of Moët & Chandon is opened every second of every day the world over and the winery tour leads you to understand why. Moët boasts miles and miles of underground wine caves where millions of bottles of wine are waiting their moment of celebration. And oh yeah, it’s where Dom Perignon is made. A whole separate project, Dom’s legendary vintage wines, aged at least nine years, live in the same space as Moët. You can find these wines everywhere; they’re part of the world wine lexicon, but you can only experience Moët in Epernay.
To juxtapose large with small, Paul-Etienne Saint Germain instantly became one of my favorite Champagne producers when we visited the small house on the Avenue. The husband and wife team of Jean-Michel and Agnès produce exquisite bubbly – chief among them “Exception” and “Sublime,” absolute must trys, along with what might have been one of the top five rosé Champagnes I’ve ever had.
Paul-Etienne Saint Germain is a must visit on the Avenue de Champagne.
There are lots of places to stay in Epernay, but don’t overlook staying right on the Avenue itself – especially at Andre Bergère. A large wine producer itself, Bergère also has a few apartment sized rooms available to book, and they’re perfectly appointed. Breakfast at Bergère is also a treat; continental in setup with loads of croissants, breads, cheeses, yogurt, coffee, and juices. And don’t forget to try the wines! The Blanc de Blanc and the Tempation Cuvee are perfect glasses of wine to share while people watching along the Avenue.
Andre Bergère is a lovely B&B on the Avenue de Champagne.
In a place with so much incredible wine, naturally there is a bustling food scene. Lots of people will recommend places to you like Le Banque, which is a tourist hit (we didn’t stop in, full disclosure), Chez Max, and La Table Kobus. But you have to go to La Cave A Champagne. It’s French food at its most indulgent – and if you’re adventurous (read: you’re excited by eating parts of animals you normally can’t find in your local grocery store) you will absolutely love this small, authentic French restaurant.
Highly recommend La Cave a Champagne for lunch or dinner while in Epernay.
A little further from Paris by train than Reims, Epernay is more than worth those extra 30 minutes on the TGV. And now that you know how great it is, and how easy and convenient it is to stay right in the heart of the action, you’ll have to put this magic kingdom on your wine bucket list. Go grab a bottle of your favorite bubbly and start planning your Champagne adventure.